Lighten the Load – Backpacking Kit Ideas

Even though it’s forecast to rain this weekend (right on cue for Glastonbury & Wimbledon), we’ve enjoyed some stunningly good weather so far this summer, and it’s set to return next week. Besides its obvious benefits; barbecues, being able to wear a T-shirt all the time etc., fine summer weather presents lovers of the great outdoors with the perfect conditions for lightweight backpacking!

Travelling light on foot is an unbeatable way to soak up beautiful landscapes as you move through them at your own pace, unburdened by weighty seasonal gear and the pressures of ‘everyday’ life. To fully achieve this Zen-like state of lightweight backpacking bliss, however, you need the right kit. As well as keeping your pack weight down, the best lightweight outdoor clothing and equipment should provide you with a base-level of personal comfort and safety, night and day. Here’s a bit of lightweight kit inspiration from Webtogs, based around the requirements lightweight backpacking with one companion…


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Marmot NanoPro: Hyper-Breathable Waterproofing For the Masses

This week at Webtogs, we’ve taken delivery of the latest new waterproofs from Marmot, featuring their new family of waterproof technologies – NanoPro. Within the NanoPro family there are two main technologies: NanoPro itself, an entry-level coated technology; and NanoPro MemBrain, a 2.5-layer laminate technology (membrane-based), aimed at the lightweight performance user. The gag with both NanoPro variants, is that they’ve both got an incredibly small pore structure, enabling a far greater number and density of pores to be packed into a single garment without a negative impact on waterproof performance. It’s a simple concept, but one which has a powerful effect on performance. And I’ve got the facts and figures from Marmot to prove it!

Marmot NanoPro: waterproof, windproof, highly durable; and of course, incredibly breathable, with Dynamic Air Permeability
Marmot NanoPro: waterproof, windproof, highly durable; and of course, incredibly breathable, with Dynamic Air Permeability

I’ve already posted an article on the NanoPro to the Gear Guru section of the, but in an attempt to keep it simple and easy for everyone to take in, I was forced to leave out a significant proportion of the material provided by Marmot, leaving only the essential facts (breathability and waterproof ratings, a couple of microscopic images etc.). Therefore, I’ve decided to get the full technical spec of NanoPro and NanoPro MemBrain out on the TogBlog (here), to indulge the tech geek tendencies of anyone who’s interested – or meticulous potential buyers who want to make sure they’re getting the right kit for the job! You can read the full NanoPro article on Webtogs, complete with microscopic images of NanoPro via the link below. Think of it as the slimmed-down option:


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How to look after leather walking boots.

Leather boots need more looking after then most, so it’s key to make sure that you take care of them – unless you want to be replacing your boots each year. If you leave your boots too long, every time they take a step you’ll be grinding dirt further in to the leather. This then has an effect of a grater, destroying the leather until it splits or cracks. Mud also sucks any moisture out of the leather leaving it old and tired.

All is not lost though, just follow our simple guide and your leather boots will serve you for many years becoming best friends with your feet. If there is just one simple thing we would like you to remember when you have bought from us it’s this.

Never ever forget to clean them!!!!

If you’re too tired on the day having just got back from the Aanoch Eagach or some other monster day out, just clean them the next day. Just don’t forget to clean them!

Muddy BootsStep 1) Clean

  • Take your laces off your boot and take out the insoles too.
  • Wash the outside with a gentle brush to get rid of all the mud. Make sure the brush is soft and gentle – no wire brushes please.
  • Every couple of weeks rinse the inside of the boot as well. You might think that’s a bit strange, but the reason goretex linings sometimes fail is because of dirt that gets in to the boot. That dirt then punctures the Goretex from the inside of the boot as it’s forced by your feet in to the lining. Warm water is the best when cleaning, but don’t worry if you’ve only got cold.
  • Don’t be tempted to use anything like washing up liquid or any other detergent as they leave traces that end up attracting water and leaving a residue.

Step 2 ) Dry

  • Under no circumstances use heat to dry them. That means no airing cupboards, radiators, camp fires or hairdriers people. You’ll weaken both the leather uppers and any glue that’s been used in making your boots.
  • Leave your boots to dry naturally with the insoles out.
  •  If you have to dry them quickly stuff them full of newspaper (we prefer the Western Gazette….) and be sure to change paper every couple of hours.
  • Dry them upside down for the quickest results.
  • Store them at room temperature.

Most of the time these steps will be enough, but sometimes your boots will need a little more care. If your boot is not beading water properly on the outside, you will need to reproof it. We recommend Nikwax as the best solution . Don’t attempt to reproof your boots however until you have cleaned them, it doesn’t work if they’re dirty and you’ll just be grinding that dirt back in to the leather.

Step 3 ) Reproof 

  • With leather boots the wetter they are, the better the application will take. Nikwax say that you can apply their reproofing to both wet and dry but they think wet does a better job. If you have just come back from a soggy walk and have cleaned your boots it’s probably the best time you can do it!
  • Apply liberally and make sure it gets in to all welts and seam.
  • Pay special attention to the seams as these are your boots weak points – particularly the join between sole and upper.
  • After 2 minutes, remove surplus with a cloth and allow to dry before use.

As your boots get older they naturally lose some of the moisture that they have within them. After cleaning and reproofing you might notice that the leather feels dry or it may even be starting to crack, it may also look grey and discoloured as well. Left like this it could well cause long term damage to your boots. When your boots get like this, you need a conditioner to help bring moisture back to the leather. We would recommend Nikwax conditioner. It works well with breathable linings such as Goretex & eVent and it’s majorly friendly to the environment too. It also helps restore boots that you think may actually be past it.

Step 4 ) Condition Looking new again!
  • The conditioning treatment works best with wet leather so make sure you have followed step 1 to clean above.
  • Apply liberally and make sure it gets in to all welts and seam.
  • Polish any left overs off after a couple of minutes.


And there you have it. Follow these top tips and your leather boots will give you years of happy use yomping the hills. If you’ve got any boot care tips or questions fire away in the comments below!


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How to reproof your waterproof gear.

Having a coat that’s lost it’s breathability and soaks up rain makes for a seriously uncomfortable day out. After our guide to washing down products, we’ve had a fair few requests from folks whose waterproofs have started to be, well, slightly less than waterproof! All jackets slowly lose their ability to repel water, to have rain bead or “rest” on the outside and that’s without even taking in to account your gear getting dirty. So if have been wondering just how to get that new jacket performance back, we’ve put together this guide on how to get your togs repelling water, and breathing easy again with Nikwax.

Rain beading on a waterproof jacketThere are two things you can do to get your jacket working as good as new. First up Washing. You need to wash your jacket first to ensure it is clean, and in case it’s necessary make sure any reproofing can go on easily. In many cases simply washing your jacket will have it back performing near it’s best. It isn’t just a case of washing in normal detergent though as that will make things worse for technical outdoor gear. You need a specialist wash that will get rid of any residues that block breathability and attract water to make your gear “wet out”. There are a few products that will do this, but we really like Nikwax Tech wash for the washing bit. Not only does the hippy in me like it (it’s water based and environmentally friendly man) but it won’t damage the water repellent treatments on the outside of your jacket, nor any waterproof membrane either. To get the best results we reckon our foolproof instructions below will have you covered;

  1. Clean your detergent dispenser. Very important this bit, if there is any gunk left from your day to day washing, it’ll clog the pores of your gear, stop it breathing as well as stopping any reproofer from going on effectively afterwards.
  2. Run your washing machine on it’s hottest wash with nothing in it. This is doing exactly the same thing as cleaning your dispenser by getting rid of the gunk inside. If you have a really grotty machine you might want to do it twice :-) As a side note, our resident Dorset washing repair man Laurie reckons you should do this once in a while anyway to stop stuff building up that can damage your washing machine.
  3. Get your gear ready. Loosen all draw cords and close all zips and Velcro so the jacket doesn’t catch. If there are any really filthy bits, rub a bit of neat Tech wash directly on to the affected area(s).
  4. Wash a maximum of two items. Simples really, ensures that your stuff gets properly clean.
  5. Follow your clothes care instructions.  Most washes should be on a delicate/synthetic wash with a slow spin to stop abrasion of your gear, follow the instruction label on your gear first and foremost.
  6. Allow to dry naturally. This is really important if you are using a spray on reproofer later.
Nikwax at Webtogs

Just in case you didn't know what a washing machine looked like.
Most times simply washing your jacket will bring back the ability for water to roll off your gear. If it doesn’t though, you’ll need to head on and take a further step, reproofing your jacket to bring water repellency back to “shiny brand new coat” time. There are loads of old wives tales about what you should wash your jacket in for this bit. After an article in Trail recently, Fabric conditioner was shown to be a great reproofer, with water beading sweetly on the outside after a wash. However, breathability of the jacket was then transformed in to something similar to a plastic bag! There are a few options but again we like our mates at Nikwax, specifically their TX Direct stuff. There are several options from spray on to wash in, we reckon that wash in is the easiest solution and best for fabrics without a backing scrim such as Paclite, Marmot’s Membrain or Montane’s Atomic DT etc  as it means you won’t iss any spots. With 3 layer fabrics, Gore-Tex themselves recommend a spray on solution to stop the scrim becoming water repellent. Either way as with the Tech wash it’s earth mama time, having no flurocarbons, solvents or bad stuff that will damage planet earth.
Assuming you have followed the instructions above for washing your gear, you won’t need to clean out your washing machine again so it’s just the following;

  1. Maximum of two items. Same as above
  2. Follow your clothes care instructions. Delicate or synthetic wash on a slow spin thanks people.
  3. Warm dry your coat. This last bit isn’t critical but we find that heat ensures that repellency treatments lasts longer. Our order of preference for most effectiveness is tumble dry on a low setting if your garment allows it, shoving it on a hot radiator, popping in an airing cupboard, putting it out to dry in the hot sunshine, or (and be very careful here…) Ironing it on a very low setting.

And there you have it. The Webtogs easy peasy guide to getting your coat back in to full weather battle mode once again. Our buddy Hendrik over at Hiking in Finland did a great review of the Nikwax stuff which still has us chuckling away. Take a look below if you want some full on Finnish German bearded reproofing madness!

Have any of you folks reproofed your gear recently? If you have any tips for reproofing or keeping your waterproofs in good nick, post up in the comments below!>

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9 ways to get cheap train tickets for heading outdoors.

This week has guest blogger Andy from giving us the lowdown as to how you can get out to the hills by train – cheaper.

Going walking by train is a great idea, especially as so many great walks can be found straight from railway stations. It’s good for the environment and is often faster than travelling by car. Arriving by train means you can take on a linear hike, and start and end at a different point – something very difficult if you’ve left your car 6 miles away! With even Government Ministers admitting train travel in Britain is expensive though, it’s more important than ever to ensure you get the cheapest train tickets possible. So here I’ve got some great ways to bag a bargain.

book in advanceBook In Advance – The easiest way to get the cheapest deals is to avoid buying your train tickets on the day you travel. Rail companies dislike the so-called “Walk On” tickets, and although they have to provide them, they are much more expensive than buying your ticket in advance. If you can plan your trip before the day, you’ll get better discounts – even if you book up to 6pm the day before.

railcardGet a Railcard – If you’re travelling often, see if you qualify for a Young Persons, Family and Friends or Senior Railcard – you’ll pay for a years’ card but then save a third on off-peak travel, so you’ll soon recoup that investment. There are other regional railcards too, the most popular being the Network Railcard in the South East – it costs £28 for the year and offers a third discount on off-peak travel for you and up to 3 others, and up to a 60% saving on the fares of up to 4 children travelling too. A brand new one being trialled in the West Midlands is the Two Together Railcard – where two people named on the card can travel off-peak and save a third. The card is again £28 for the year, and currently one of those named persons has to live in the West Midlands area.

buy singlesBuy Singles – Once-upon a time, a return was cheaper than two singles. Now, with most long-distance train operators, it is actually cheaper to buy two singles. Check your prices online and don’t assume a return will always be the best bet.

split ticketsSplit your Tickets – Try splitting your journey up into shorter ones at a station in the middle to see if it saves you money – this is easier if you have to change during your journey. For example, an Off-Peak return from Doncaster (the home of Walks Around Britain) to Llandrindod is £71.80, changing at Stockport and Shrewsbury. Buy 3 separate returns for Doncaster to Stockport, Stockport to Shrewsbury and Shrewsbury to Llandrindod, and it costs £44.50. You can even try this if you don’t have to change trains – it’s ok so long as the train stops at the split station – although you might have to move seats as you’re not guaranteed to get the same seat for both tickets.

avoid the peaksAvoid the Peaks – Unlike walking, where peaks are great, on the trains they are bad news! Travelling during peak times is very expensive and should be avoided. However, if you’re having a day trip walking you need to travel out in peak time, so here you should definitely split your tickets. Again, travelling from Doncaster at 7.55am for a walk in Telford costs an eye-watering £104 – but by splitting tickets and getting day returns between Doncaster & Derby, Derby & Birmingham and Birmingham & Telford cuts the cost down to £55.40.

try the competitionTry the competition – On many long-distance routes, there are several train operators competing – and this is good for cheaper tickets. On the East Coast Mainline, for example for journeys between Doncaster and London Kings Cross, we could travel on either East Coast, Grand Central or First Hull Trains. On other routes, like Birmingham to London, there are rival operators travelling over different lines – Virgin Trains run fast from Brum New Street to London Euston, while Chiltern travel semi-fast between Snow Hill and London Marylebone. There can also be other operators with slower services too – London Midland operate stopping services between Brum and London which only cost £6.00 but take more than 2 hours. If you buy two singles, you could travel there and back with different operators to take advantage of the cheapest fare.

wild roverBe the Wild Rover – If you’re on a holiday in a region and want to get out and explore, try a Rover or a Ranger ticket. They offer unlimited travel in a certain region for a set length of time and provide great value for money. For example, the North Country Rover offers travel on any 4 days in an 8 day period and costs £76 – just making two day trips from York to Carlisle and another to Settle costs £72.80 making the other 2 days travel only £3.20… If you’re feeling really adventurous, try the All-Line Rail Rover. This is a gem of a ticket offering 7 or 14 days rail travel across Britain – for £430 for 7 days or £650 for 14 days. It sounds a lot, but when you consider you only have to make trips costing £62 a day to break even, it’s actually a good buy. Couple that with a lightweight tent and backpack, and you’re ready for a trip around Britain’s countryside by rail!

form a groupForm a group – Just travelling in groups as small as 3 or 4 can get you discounts. For example, the Small Group Day ticket from some operators offers groups of between 3 and 9 people 25% discount on a day ticket. But remember, to get any group discount you’ve got to travel together for the whole journey – no breaking off early or the whole ticket won’t be valid.

use the rail companys own websiteUse their own website – Often, particular train operators discount their own tickets if they are bought on their own website – so it’s worth buying different tickets on different websites for the biggest savings. East Coast, for example, offer up to a 10% discount on their own tickets when bought on their website – so book with them direct for any part of your journey involving their trains.

You can catch up with Andy on you tube where he has a fab list of walking videos and inspiration for your next trip out and about. For more information on cheap train tickets Martin’s Money has got a fab guide to saving some dosh on the tracks as well.

If you have any top tips for saving dosh on the trains, do let us know in the comments below.

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A Beginners Guide to Mountain Biking by a Beginner.

Here follows a beginners guide to mountain biking by a beginner, and a few tips from some older, wiser, more experienced fellows.

Should you catch the MTB (mountain biking) bug then there are a few things that, in my opinion, you should look out for. Well, these are the things that have caught me out so far and it’s only been a few months so I hope that they might help prepare you for what may arise.

Choosing your bike.

Possibly one of the most exciting hurdles to hop over is the choice of bike. One of the things that hit me was the sheer volume of bikes that are available. There are hundreds of brands and then within the brands there are tens of styles and so on and so on. You get the picture.

Once you’ve decided to take the plunge and buy a bike, choose a top line price that you’ll be willing to pay. I say this because some bikes can cost as much as a brand new car. One thing I still find amusing is the amount of old bangers that you see being driven around with some top class bikes being proudly presented on the roof rack. Generally the bikes are worth a lot  more than the car, and also looked after much better! Don’t be alarmed if you see on a bike website that someone is willing to swap their bike for a car or vice versa. Pretty standard apparently.

Mountain biking covers quite a large area and within this are areas like downhill, cross country (XC), and all mountain. Each discipline now has a type of bike which is suited best for your choice activity. What you need to do is lay down what it is that you’re going to be doing most of the time and then choose a bike which is best suited to you. Don’t freak out if your bike says that it’s best suited to single track trails because I’m sure that if you want to ride it to the shops it’ll cope just fine.


This took me by surprise. Bikes come in different sizes. They come as either XS to XL or they come sized in inches. This is the size of the frame and it relates to how tall you are. I know it makes perfect, logical sense, however it completely threw me off as when I was growing up it didn’t matter. As far as I was concerned bigger was better. I’m now 6ft and ride an 18 inch or a large frame and I’ve tried riding a smaller and larger frame but after a while you get pain in your legs and shoulders where you’re either over stretched or cramped up. Having the wrong size frame also ruins your energy efficiency making life rather tough when it should be fun.


I thought there were pedals and that was that, you just hopped on the bike and off you went. No, there are different types of pedals and scarily enough there are ones which you can clip into. My advice would be to start on normal pedals, sometimes referred to as flatties, and then once you get used to your bike and your confidence grows, move onto SPD’s. SPD’s are pedals that you clip your shoes into, like the Tour de France riders. There are special MTB shoes and cleets which are more hard wearing and protective as you’re more likely to encounter mud and stones. SPD’s are beneficial because you gain more purchase and feel for the bike. It means that instead of only being able to pedal on the down you can push and pull to get more power and steam past others.


In the UK it’s wet most of the time and so this means that tyre pressure plays quite a large part on how much grip you have while off road. If you have too much pressure then you’ll find that there’s less rubber hitting the ground which means less friction and more skidding around. I find that somewhere around 50 to 60 psi does the job perfectly when it’s a bit wet and of course if its dry then add a little more to decrease the friction and let you go a bit faster.

Chat to other enthusiasts

One thing that’s invaluable is other people and their input and experience. There’s a whole other world and dictionary for cycle chat, therefore finding out what other people use and think can save you some serious time and money. Recently I’ve had a few problems with my bike so I chatted to a few guys from work who helped me out and gave me some advice. I then went to the local bike shop to see what they would say and I came out flabbergasted at what they wanted to charge for what was to be a 10 minute job. Lesson learned though, chat to others before hand. Everyone is more than happy to share their knowledge, but of course remember to build your own knowledge base up because not everyone has the same wants and needs.


Fun, above all, is the reason to get on your bike. So get out, get muddy and as our developer Tim says, ‘look out for bears, you should always look out for bears.’

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What everybody ought to know about Wild Camping

Wild camp on Bleaklow in the Peak District

Wild camping is something we get asked about a fair bit here at Webtogs, and is one of our passions. The feeling of freedom and being able to camp on the hills is incredibly liberating, but some people are a little overwhelmed when thinking about heading out for the first time. We’ve been around the office to put together our top tips if you are thinking of heading out  for the first time.

  1. Leave no trace – We think this is the most important guideline to follow, take everything away with you and leave nothing behind. That means no fire’s, take your litter home, and take sanitary products such as tampons and towels away with you too as animals will dig them up.  Toilet duties should always be done at least 30 metres away from any water source, and make sure you take a lightweight trowel to bury any number 2’s! Don’t be tempted to move rocks or logs for the perfect pitch, leave the place where you camp as you found it.
  2. Where to camp and legal stuff – Wild Camping is legal on Dartmoor and in Scotland provided you follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code. It is not legal in England or Wales unless you ask the landowners permission – which is usually impractical. Generally speaking though, wild camping is tolerated so long as you follow a few simple guidelines. Camp as high as possible. Don’t camp in fields with animals, camp away from human habitation and out of sight of roads, houses, farms or dwellings.  Finally, be prepared to move on if asked and always be friendly and polite.
  3. Pitch Late and leave early – Part of leaving no trace means spending as little time actually pitched as you can. The only side note we would say is take note of sunset times late or early in the year as popping a tent up on a mountainside in the pitch dark is no fun. Don’t camp in the same spot for more than 2 days at a time to lessen your impact on the environment.
  4. Blend in – That means don’t take a bright tent and camp as unobtrusively as possible. This has side benefits in that it  helps you avoid being spotted by anyone who might move you on, and lets others share in the natural beauty of the area you are camping in.
  5. Don’t take the gang – A couple of tents at most is what you want, share a shelter if a few of you are going.
  6. Take less stuff – Wild Camping is not about taking the kitchen sink, you are much better off taking as little as possible as you are going to have to carry it to your campsite. It’s also why you are wild camping as well, keep things simple and enjoy being away from the distractions and stuff of everyday life.
  7. Sort the water –  Camp near a water source if you can, or remember to take enough drinking water with you. If you are going to pick up water on your trip, make sure you have a water filter with you, you won’t want to be getting ill away from civilisation.
  8. Get the right gear –  Wild camping usually means being that much more inaccessible from civilisation so you need to make sure your gear is up to the task. The last thing you want to do is have a tent fail on you with the wind and rain coming down hard. Checkout our range of quality tents and sleeping bags to make sure you have a good time. Focus on lightweight gear where possible and ensure you have everything you need so if you do have any problems, you can sort them out yourself.
  9. Small steps – For your first wild camp, consider finding a spot that you can get back from easily, that way if your gear fails or if you have any problems, a retreat won’t take you hours!

Follow these and we reckon you will have a great time, fire away in the comments with any questions, or, what are your top tips for a great wild camp?




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Essential Guide to Walking Kit

We had fun earlier in the year meeting up with Andy from Walks around Britain and Dave from MyOutdoors whilst up in the Peak District. We were already shooting a short video on a walk around Coombs Dale, whilst we were there, we had a chance to shoot the following short video on what sort of gear you might need when starting walking.



For those of you new to walking, the video gives a great intro to the sort of kit you will need to take when heading out for a days strolling, whether that be in the hills or valleys. We would recommend at least the following gear, as weather conditions can change rapidly when you are out and about.

– Small rucksack of between 15 & 25 litres in size
– Good pair of walking boots, spend the lions share of your budget on this.
Baselayer to push or wick sweat away from your body, it should be synthetic or merino wool (not cotton!)
– A Midlayer, generally fleece, either heavy or light depending on the weather and a spare one in case of emergency.
– An outerlayer, usually a waterproof jacket, but can be a soft shell which is a water resistant and wind proof layer.
– Good pair of walking trousers and a pair of waterproof trousers if the weather looks bad. Don#’t wear jeans, if they get wet, they are rather uncomfortable, again stick to synthetic options which are hard wearing, water resistant and dry quickly.
– Map (great guide from Ordanance Survey here on choosing the right map).
First aid kit.
– Food & Drink as you burn a lot of calories out strolling.
Hat & Gloves (make it a sun hat for summer along with some sun cream).

This is just a basic list, so take in to account if you are doing anything more strenuous, or if you are heading in to the mountains, you may well need more equipment.

What would you consider essential for your rucksack or clothing when heading outside?

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Top 10 tips to stop your camping trip becoming a nightmare in canvas.

We’re all fairly avid campers here at Webtogs, camping year round in some fairly gnarly conditions. We’ve been round the block a few times, so for those of you dusting off your tent for your first spot of camping for the year, we asked everyone in the office for their top tip for camping. This isn’t a guide to tents – we’ll cover that in another post, but this is our holy grail of must do’s and don’ts that have been learnt the hard way when heading under canvas.

Spot of wind anyone?
Nightmare in Canvas…..

Keith – “Make sure you know how to put your tent up. Pitching before you head off is a great idea to ensure you don’t struggle when you get to the campsite or out in the wilds. Read the instructions, despite my experience, I always read new tent pitching instructions as they all differ very slightly”

Charlie – “If you have used your tent previously, make sure you check it to ensure it has all it’s pegs, guylines and any repairs have been made. You don’t want to get to the campsite to remember that you have the rip in your tent from last year where someone trod on it nipping to the loo.”

Gareth – “Have a list of everything you need to take camping with you and make sure you check it off. We’ve got a list of basics that we make sure we have for each trip”  We’ve included it here as a text file, and is based on a spot of family car camping (basics only), so feel free to do with it as you will and tweak it based on whats important for you for a good time.

Matt – “Don’t crack out the beers straight away, pitch your tent fully and make sure someone hangs on the tent at all times when windy! Don’t be tempted to leave the guy lines as when the wind hits, you’ll be the guy chasing his tent down the campsite”

Blissful camping
Blissful camping

Sue – “Don’t pitch on a slope or in a hollow, if you pitch on a slope be prepared to roll on top of one another, or get a headache if your head is downhill. If you pitch in a hollow, you could be paddling in your tent, as that’s where the water will collect.

Ross – “If you are sleeping anywhere near me, you’ll need ear plugs to get to sleep with my snoring. Keep a pair handy for noisy campsites / neighbours / freinds”

Mike “Get organised in your tent, the last thing you want to do is try and find your teddy bear with no light and you can’t remember where your torch is. Have a place for everything and keep it vaguely tidy”

Lucy – “Make sure nothing is touching the outside of the tent as that will bring water in through the flysheet, keep your inner tent away from the fly as well.”

Jon – “Aim to pitch two hours before you think you should, trust me, those to hours will dissapear.”

These are just our top tips for camping, we would love to hear what yours are in the comments below, have we missed anything? What would you have as your one critical tip when camping?

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